The IWC Portugieser Chronograph has the 30-minute chronograph counter at 12:00 along with the continuous seconds at 6:00. Thankfully, we are spared the date window here. If you are a fan of the new IWC Portugieser Chronograph Classic published a little while ago, you will notice that this blue dialed sibling doesn’t have the unique moment and hour totalizer at 12:00. This, combined with the steel caseback is a sign that IWC has shrunk to its Valjoux 7750-derived grade 79350. This is a peculiar and frankly disappointing choice given the excellent in-house grade 89361 they have available.The caliber 79350, as a modified Valjoux 7750, is a competent movement and offers 42 hours of power reserve at 28,800bph, but it’s more of an instrument watch motion. Why is this decision even more puzzling is that the IWC Portugieser Automatic is powered with the caliber 52010, which is an IWC in-house layout that offers 7 days of power reserve through two barrels, working at 28,800bph. As a guideline, if a brand establishes a time-only and a chronograph collectively inside exactly the same line, then I anticipate the movements to be of a comparable provenance and for the chronograph to be priced higher.The good news for those who like the Portugieser look but have been put off by the price tag for the in-house chrono motion, is that this gloomy dialed, 7750-powered sibling is nearly half the price. These two watches will be regular production and available through all retailers, boutiques, and IWC’s recently revamped e-store. IW371491) come with an alligator strap for $12,700 and $6,900, respectively.
Nothing is more challenging then to design a pure and simple watch. All of a sudden every little single detail can make or break the design, having an impact influences the entire perception of the watch. It is a true balancing act, that some brands have mastered. Here are a few examples of those that did.
Zenith Elite 6150
With the Elite 6150, Zenith incorporated the old with the new. A vintage looking silvered dial, decorated with a sunray pattern, is fitted in a 42 mm case. Zenith’s designers played in a very clever way with alternating dashes and double dashes, making the dial look minimalist yet refreshingly different at the same time. That is the unusual power that some details can yield. Zenith also kept the text to the minimum on the dial, only indicating that what really matters. They don’t even show off the generous 4-day power reserve of the automatic caliber Elite 6150, one of Zenith’s many manufacture movements.
The IWC Portugieser Chronograph gets the 30-minute chronograph counter at 12:00 along with the continuous seconds at 6:00. Thankfully, we’re spared the date window here. If you are a fan of the newest IWC Portugieser Chronograph Classic released a little while ago, you’ll notice that this blue dialed sibling does not have the exceptional minute and hour totalizer at 12:00. This, along with the steel caseback is a sign which IWC has shrunk to its Valjoux 7750-derived caliber 79350. This is a peculiar and frankly disappointing choice given the superb in-house grade 89361 they have available.The quality 79350, as a modified Valjoux 7750, is a competent movement and offers 42 hours of power reserve at 28,800bph, but it is more of a tool watch movement. Why is this decision even more puzzling is that the IWC Portugieser Automatic is powered with the caliber 52010, which is an IWC in-house design that provides 7 days of power reserve through two barrels, working at 28,800bph. As a rule of thumb, if a new launches a time-only and a chronograph collectively inside the exact same line, then I anticipate the moves to be of a similar provenance and also for the chronograph to become priced higher.The good news for those who enjoy the Portugieser appearance but have been put off by the purchase price tag for its in-house chrono movement, is that this blue dialed, 7750-powered sibling is almost half the cost. These two watches will be routine production and accessible through all retailers, boutiques, and IWC’s newly revamped e-store. The new IWC Portugieser Automatic (Ref. IW500710) and Portugieser Chronograph (Ref.
IWC has launched an upgraded successor for its Portugieser Chronograph Classic, a Iwc Portofino Watch Gallery Replica renowned because of its unique chronograph totalizer display, in-house movement, and sporty yet elegant design. The new benchmark 3903 replaces the mention 3904, with several subtle design changes and upgrades which help improve the overall aesthetic of this watch.The Portugieser line (formerly called Portuguese) has been considered to be large-sized watches when found from the 1930s. But at 42mm, the newest IWC Portugieser Chronograph Classic is all about the median by today’s standards. Offered in either stainless steel or rose gold, the case is elegant with a touch of sportiness as a result of the broad, double-stepped case and round chronograph pushers. In addition, the watch is also available in two dial colours: silver and blue. Both dial colors are available in the stainless steel choice however, the rose-gold is only offered with a silver dial. While all three choices work well, my personal favorite is that the stainless steel with silver dial and the heat-blued hands.The highlight of the watch is your in-house chronograph movement with chronograph hours and moments exhibited at 12 o’clock and like a flyback function. The caliber 89361 is part of their 89000 household of IWC movements, a few of which are observed in halo offerings such as the Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month. The calibre 89361 is manufactured in-house, offers a 68-hour power reserve, and can be seen in all its Geneva-striped glory through the display caseback. The skeletonized and decorated rotor also helps reveal as much of the chronograph mechanism as possible for the proprietor’s viewing enjoyment.
IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Pure Classic
IWC couldn’t have been more right when they named this Portofino “Pure Classic”. It continues the amazing legacy that the brand actually nurtured since the very beginning, and brought to heights in the 1950’s with the famous Caliber 89. With its two leaf shaped hands and Roman numerals only at the twelve and six o’clock position, the IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Pure Classic brings a lot of character to the wrist. Because of its 43.5mm wide case, this will not go unnoticed. The Portofino actually needs that space to fit in manufacture caliber 59060, which boasts an 8-day power reserve, which can be viewed from the back. Of course, the finishing touch on this watch is the refined Santoni-strap.
Jaeger-leCoultre Master Ultra Thin 1907
Another brand that has quite a reputation on making exquisite, yet understated watches is Jaeger-LeCoultre. With the Master Ultra Thin 1907, they proved once more why this is the case. An elegant dial hides the 1.85mm ultra-slim manual wind movement. This allowed Jaeger-LeCoultre to fit it in a case with an overall height of just 4.05mm. To accomplish this the markers on the dial are printed, and the hands set in very close proximity to the dial. Just another testimony that making pure looking watches, is not simple at all!
There is a good deal of space showing the barrel bridge which, obviously, displays both mainspring barrels in all of their glory. The two barrels benefit the torque discharge, and it makes a significant difference looking at the organic leap in the 5001’s 3Hz to the IW5007’s more contemporary 4Hz frequency — that, in turn, creates the 52010 standard to currently have to save more energy to still offer the 7-day power reserve along with the greater frequency.The bidirectional twisting has enhanced over the 5001 together with the inclusion of two black ceramic pawls. Consider them like two ceramic black stripes as one will begin to release while the other essentially pulls, operating with no need for lubrication. This heightens concern for wear or any unforeseen weaknesses because, as likely to cracking upon impact ceramic may be, it’s unlikely anything will hit these parts that are safely tucked away under the large sapphire case-back. Also featured from the 52010 motion is IWC’s sturdy free sprung escapement, so the speed should remain more consistent, something further improved using a Breguet over-coil hairspring. It was first devised by a Dutch mathematician called Huygens in 1675. In 1795 Abraham-Louis Breguet solved a number of the isochronism problems of the Huygens-invented hairspring by increasing the spring’s last coil to lessen its curvature and establish that the concentric development of the balance spring — resulting in the balance personnel wearing out less quickly while updating precision at the exact same moment. Obviously, it is not exclusive neither to Breguet, nor to IWC, but remains a fantastic small detail us watch-enthusiasts can love.