With its articulated strap horns and the perpetual calendar, the Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in stainless steel represents the very best of over 30 years of the Da Vinci family. The moon remains still against the dark blue night sky while the moon-phase indicator disc beneath the dial acts as the earth’s shadow and imitates the waxing and waning of the moon. The perpetual calendar’s extreme precision is made possible by the in-house 89630 calibre. The moon phase display diverges by just 1 day in 577.5 years from the actual phase of the moon. The hour and minute counters are combined in a totalizer at “12 o’clock”, enabling stopped times to be read like a second time of day. Thanks to the flyback function, this watch allows ongoing chronograph time measurements to be instantly “deleted” and a new measurement started without an intermediate stop.
Among the features of the new round IWC Da Vinci case is that the articulating curved lugs, which move to provide a better fit for the wearer. Together with the glossy black Santoni alligator leather strap, it also gives the watch a somewhat ornate look. Powering the IWC Da Vinci Chronograph watch is IWC’s in-house grade 89361, which will be a chronograph movement with a flyback function. And thanks to IWC’s efficient double-pawl winding system, the IWC Da Vinci Chronograph Edition “Laureus Sport for Good Foundation” includes an energy reserve of 68 hours – or almost 3 times.
N recent decades, IWC has followed the tradition of choosing one of their selections for a whole refresh that they announce at SIHH. This past year, we saw a diverse new set of Pilot’s watches inserted to the IWC catalog, but 2017 is all about the complete overhaul of their Da Vinci collection. We brought you news of this IWC Da Vinci Automatic watch not long ago and, when compared to something like the IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph, using its revamped circular instance, it truly shows you the range of changes coming into the lineup. With the basic automated version, however, IWC is attempting to capture the soul of the earlier 1980s Da Vinci timepieces while presenting a watch that’s designed for and marketed to both women and men. Simplicity is also crucial once you set that kind of universal goal, and the new IWC Da Vinci Automatic models provide enough diversity in the way of strap and dial mixes to appeal to a range of watch lovers.
- Stainless steel case
- Diameter 43.0MM
- Height 15.7MM
- Water resistance 3 bar
- Slate-coloured dial
- Perpetual calendar with displays for the date, day, month, year in four digits and perpetual moon phase
- Chronograph function with hours, minutes and seconds
- Hour and minute counters combined in a totalizer at 12 o’clock
- Flyback function
- Sapphire glass, arched-edge, antireflective coating on both sides
- Small hacking seconds
- 89630 Calibre
- Automatic, self-winding
- 51 Jewels
- 68 hours Power Reserve
- IWC-manufactured movement
- Côtes de Genève, perlage
- Black alligator leather strap by Santoni
Calibre Family 89000
The 89000-calibre family includes powerful chronograph movements with flyback function, which are used, for example, for the big digital date and month displays or for watches that display stopped hours and minutes on a subdial.
N recent years, IWC has followed the convention of choosing one of their collections for a whole refresh which they announce in SIHH. This past year, we watched a varied new set of Pilot’s watches inserted to the IWC catalogue, but 2017 is all about the complete overhaul of the Da Vinci collection. We brought you news of the IWC Da Vinci Automatic watch not long ago and, when compared to something like the IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph, with its revamped circular instance, it truly shows you the range of changes coming to the lineup. With the fundamental automatic model, though, IWC is trying to catch the spirit of the earlier 1980s Da Vinci timepieces while presenting a watch that is designed for and marketed to both men and women. Simplicity is also key when you set that sort of universal goal, and the new IWC Da Vinci Automatic models offer enough diversity in the way of strap and dial combinations to appeal to a range of watch lovers.
The perpetual calendar is one of the most fascinating haute horlogerie complications. Originally developed by former chief designer Kurt Klaus and continuously improved since then, it is mechanically programmed for 577 years.
I’ll go out on a limb and say this: IWC perpetual calendars — especially the Portugieser versions, naturally — have for a very long time been among those truly complex and expensive watches that I could see people… well, really wear. Not just in fancy airport lounges or events, but also in perfectly everyday settings, out and around — though probably more so in large cities of planet’s rich countries than elsewhere. While that is a statistically unsubstantiated claim, I will stick to it because to observe a watch of these sophistication on real people’s wrists out in the true world is not only fascinating but also, in a way, inspires one to see said watch at a slightly different light.